Basing Before Painting – Uncle Atom’s Pro Tips

This entry was posted in Painters tips. Bookmark the permalink.

23 Responses to Basing Before Painting – Uncle Atom’s Pro Tips

  1. Benjamin Pointer says:

    I have to concur with not using PVA if you’re going to paint the texture (or especially if you are gluing other basing materials on top of the texture). I love experimenting with basing materials and one thing that I’ve found is that if you use PVA, when you then paint or glue on top of it, that paint/glue shrinks as it dries out (the glue even more so than the paint) and pulls on the texture underneath.
    Because the plastic bases are so smooth, the adhesion is fairly weak and I have had the edges of my basing material lifted up revealing the clean surface of the plastic base underneath. So your “weird nightmare” is actually correct, at least in my experience.

  2. WarBoy says:

    Kitty litter is a great idea. I bought a big bag of rocks and sand from the pet store(for fish tanks) and I primarily use those, but for fine grain sand I use Woodland Scenics fine buff sand B73.

  3. Daniel Lopez says:

    but what if some Dolt puts his base on top of you’re finely detaild base during a game and ruins it

  4. Nordheim Gaming says:

    Another way of doing things are doing the base separate.
    It’s a bit more time consuming, but I find the end result to be even better.
    But yeah, Basing makes all the difference in the world.

  5. Cynthia Snead says:

    I have always based last. Sometimes I am not even sure what I want to do with my bases until I am done painting. It is easy for me to cover up paint mistakes on the ground. I might consider texturing before priming, but I haven’t really had much trouble with my stuff coming off the base. I used watered down pva glue and then put another layer to seal the texture. I also use a lot of turf and static grass and natural pebbles, which I don’t paint. I think as long as people are doing something with their bases, it probably doesn’t matter too much when they do it. I am surprised to learn that so many people prefer plain bases, but I guess I can understand why.

  6. Sebastian Wichert says:

    Honestly i hate that entire basing nonsense. It mostly never fits to the surrface or tables played on, so i play with the idea to check transparent bases.

  7. RNGesus says:

    I just use liberal amounts of agrellan earth. It gives it’s own texture as it can be lumpy when you use large amounts and it cracks to give a dry mud esque look. I tend to paint quite dark models so having a light grey/brown base tends to make it stand out nicely. For my Chaos stuff I’m adding some blood for the blood god as well to give it a cool finish (possibly put some on the feet as well so it looks like they’ve stepped on something)

  8. atomstrom says:

    Good basing is a huge part of the hobby. I did static grass and heavy grit back in the 90s when all GW ones still have been all green. I think they also didn’t carry the supplies, but as both me and my gaming buddy had railroads as kids and our hobbystore was mainly a railroad store… well, I guess you know where that leads. It’s just always good to be open minded and willing to learn something new.
    Anyway, PVA on pure plastic can be a problem if it doesn’t have something to bite, it’s imperative to at least sand and best if primed before using the glue. Before going that route it’s just easier to slap on some Zap-A-Gap directly or at least an all purpose glue that will stick to plastic. PVA works a charm on so many things, it just doesn’t have to bitch in on everything.
    And yes, PVA can be peeled off a lot of materials. I’ve even used PVA to duplicate textures when I didn’t have anything else to do so. And I just put the flat side on, guess what, plastic, so I could remove it when it’s dry to attach to my model. It’s funny, the only thing I really used hot glue for is doing some quick mould. I don’t trust that stuff either.

  9. Elemeno says:

    I was completely blown away by what you were saying.
    I find I do my best paint with the model unassembled. Like; you dont have to take so much care with crevices and corners, you just leave blank the glued sections, and then paint the rest, its so much more efficient, and you get better detail in areas that would otherwise be hard to get into. and then I paint the base separately, and glue them together…

  10. Chris Kilbourn says:

    Your videos look excellent, in addition to the great content. May I ask what you use for your video setup?

  11. Cesar Perez says:

    Interesting tip… Never considered it before. Going to start working on my bases now.

  12. Robert Dagata says:

    If you plan on pinning your figures before you you attach them to the base, you can work in whatever order you want.
    -Stronger bonding strength
    -greater access to painting surface

  13. Christopher Setterstrom says:

    Yeaah, realized I should have put my basing textures on first when I finally completed my first five models. I mean, I have no idea what I even want it to look like at the moment so I suppose I will have to come back and do them all once I know what to do and how. Worst case, I really like the aesthetic of the bases GW is selling so that’s an option.

  14. deviantpersona says:

    I never glue the model to the base until I’m done painting both

  15. Eddie Spruill says:

    Doggonet you could make a topic about melting ice sound intrigueing, and having a nick name like Atom Smasher doesn’t hurt either

  16. Emperor's Champion says:

    I started this a couple of years back and completely agree, get the basing done before painting. Before that, the basing stage to me felt like the most mundane thing ever and it was because finishing it last is so tedious and you’re limiting the input the base environment has to the story of whatever it is you’re painting.

    So the day I started sculpting tile bases of the imperial palace for my fists, not only did I enjoy the painting stage more but I started to feel i’d created a laudable environment for those minis.

  17. Steve Isaak says:

    I am new and learning as I go. For my WOR models I am trying to add texture after but I will try switching

  18. Chez Ratte says:

    I usually use wood glue (not sure if that is the right name, I mean the white stuff used for glueing wood) for basing. First to make the sand stick to the base, and after that is dried, I do a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water. Takes a bit longer to dry, but afterwards it is almost like concrete. Of course all before primer.

  19. David Malecek says:

    Interesting material for basing is crushed pumice, creates very interesting porous texture 🙂

  20. Ben Lore says:

    Hey, so I am starting the “basing” part of my army for the first time, and I planned on using the texture paints from GW and static grass. Shouldn’t I do that after? Or, not?

  21. hellomurse says:

    This might be weird, but I’m 2D painting my current army’s bases. I paint rocks, bushes, craters, fire, etc. on the flat base, sort of Bob Ross style. This mediocre base painting goes very well with my poor paint jobs 😀

  22. PretentiousPainters says:

    I once saw a army of Lord of the rings at GW. the miniatures were painted about 5/10 quality, not that great, but they all had decent and consistent base jobs and it made the army loook fantastic.

  23. Jonathan Richards says:

    I have a hero forge mini and on it’s base are mushrooms, how can I paint them to be bioluminescent (blue). I also have some water effect paint that I’ve never experimented with and i wanted to have it under the mushrooms for a moist damp effect. tips?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *